eyhonda - 63 cb77 cafe project

[eyhonda]

Steve- it's not quite sooty black. So that's what I meant by light black. Not grey - that's more lean. So, now with my jets at 145 and the needle in the middle, the plugs are basically the same. Slight rich on the left and slight lean on the right.

The floats are the same based on setting the floats even with the jet holder. Measuring the fuel, I get 1 1/4 oz or 40ml (cc). The carbs are flat sides, square bowls with brass tubes. So maybe it's still a little low by 4cc (thanks steve).

Not sure why the difference in plugs are from. I'll attack that another day. I'm done for the day. It's pouring rain.

[jensen]

Hi,

Check out this video : http://www.flickr.com/photos/40215250@N04/4656679509/
Here the midrange is tested, especially the pick-up of my 1965 CB450 BB.

Jensen

[LOUD MOUSE]

Great video. (that ya there Jensen?)
As I talk with so many fellers on the forum I know that some have the $$$$ to have the DYNO test done but others don't
So far this forum with the help of others has lots of these bikes being ridden without spending lots of $$$ and the owner learned from the list what/where/how to KEEP the bike on the rode.
Just me. ................lm

Hi,

Check out this video : http://www.flickr.com/photos/40215250@N04/4656679509/
Here the midrange is tested, especially the pick-up of my 1965 CB450 BB.

Jensen

[jensen]

Ed,

I think you are one of the guys who are able to do it yourself, with the experience you gathered over the years. You know how a CB72 / 77 should run, so you are able to bring every bike to that point, because you were there before, don’t underestimate that.

But if I reed story’s about guys who are asking a lot of questions but forgot to clean the main jets, I think by my self, well, there you go again.

I can’t look in someone’s wallet, but I think the priority’s are the problem, not the money itself. In most cases it is not a good investment to do a dyno run, simply because the owner sees the bike as a showcase, a piece of art to look at. But when you ride the bike on a regular basis, it’s a different story, then it is well invested money.

I ride a few classic rides with my bikes every year, and there are always a lot of bikes on the truck when we are done, in most cases for very simple reasons, in most cases carburettor / points related.

When the basics are good (following your recipe) a dyno run isn’t a big investment, in time or money. Next to that it will point out directly what is good and what is not good about the engine set-up, and will save you lot’s of euro’s on a piston jobs, valve jobs or any other kind of engine work on the engine due to lean or to rich mixture, not synchronised carbs etc.

One’s the engine is a runner, it is enough to adjust the points, clean the fuel filters, lubricate the cables and change the oil. In most cases the engine doesn’t vibrate severe anymore, so everything stays on the bike and won’t crack.

Jensen

[eyhonda]

Sometimes, I think it is not really the money. It's a matter of doing it yourself. Getting the bike running good is the final satisfaction. I think if you were the type to tackle rebuilding one of these bikes, you are a do it yourself type of person. For me, it is a great learning investment. I would be quite upset if I took it to a pro and he simply told me I made a mistake I could have figured out (in time and some stumbling). It's an iterative learning process and I would rather tweek it myself. Even if it is a bunch of mistakes, I learn from it. If I made a mistake, usually it's because I haven't run into that condition or issue yet or I just simply forgot (duh moments). But as the more experienced have learned the hard way, I'm willing to do the same. Sometimes it's a hard lesson but a good one.

I did call one dynojet guy (you can see the listing off the Dynojet site) and he said it wasnt really necessary to dyno an old bike. I suppose he has some point. I always had the impression that a dyno is to tune a bike beyond it's normal power capability. The bike only has about 28 hp. If it is built right and everything is in working order, it should be running fine. If it is not running fine, something is just way off base. He referred me to the Honda guru that I already know. He has many SuperHawks and he tunes them to a very good running condition without an expensive dyno.

[jensen]

Hi,

I do the rebuilding myself too, nothing is easier to buy and ride. But in the process of a complete restoration you cannot do everything yourself (in time, technology or just not having the tools). I can do a lot myself, and I do, but re boring, chroming and painting are things I cannot do myself, in most cases I don't have the tools or the environment for it.

Straightening a crank within 0.005 mm, putting new bearings on a crank, renew the rods are things I do myself, flowing the inlet and exhaust too. Rewiring a stator, and a valve job isn't that special either, nor is replacing a guide.

A run in a laboratory environment is something different, because that's what a dyno run is, and that has nothing to do with gaining more power, but everything get the maximum out of the bike, and therefor is should be in top condition.

But I suggest that we make an end on the subject, next to that it's your thread.

Jensen

[eyhonda]

I worked with Ed on the phone to correct my cam timing & valve adjustment (big thanks again to Ed)! After that, it still had the annoying popping and poor throttle response. I rechecked the timing and it was a little advanced. So I adjusted it statically. I started it and it was still off with my timing light. So I adjusted it dynamically with my light at idle. Runs without the popping - yay! It turned out to be timing. I trust the timing gun more now.

As far as the lean condition on the right, the carb top where the cable adjuster threads in was stripped enough to leak air. I temporarily fixed it with some vinyl tape. It's still runs a little rich. So I'll try 138 jets tomorrow. But it runs much better today.