Ugly Betty

[Wilf]

Chase,

I took the shift arm off and rotated it one spline CW and now it is close to perpendicular with respect to the shift linkage. That should result in less toe force required to shift.

Then I read and re-read the second part of your post, about there being a separate insert on the flat end of the clutch lifter rod. I'm not clear about this at all....

The domed end of the lifter rod goes in toward the clutch basket. That leaves the flat end sticking out of the seal on the right side. It makes contact with the ball bearing in the clutch adjuster mechanism. Where does the separate insert go?

I must be missing something, and my engine may be missing something as well!

Wilf

[cknight]

If the flat end is in the rod, you're good to go. The flat end itself is an insert, with a "T" shaped cross section, and presses into the ID of the tube. I've only had one come loose, and it seems to be an unusual happening. Regards, Chase

[Wilf]

Chase,

I couldn't make sense of what you were saying until I realized that the clutch lifter rod is a tube and not solid as I previously imagined. Then I looked closely at the flat end and could see the line between the insert and the tube, so now it makes sense.

I'm looking at a spare, used rod and I can see a dimple about 2mm diameter from contact with the ball, and I also see where someone has ground the end (maybe to get rid of the dimple). I can't use this rod because it has pretty deep grooves in it from the seal and is 246mm long and probably under spec. (I will have to check the wear tolerances and then check the lifter rod that is currently in my engine.

At this point I know I have some clutch drag because yesterday I stalled in 1st gear at a stop sign even with the clutch pulled all the way in. I also couldn't stop the rear wheel from turning using my hand (with the lever all the way in, in 1st gear, at idle, bike on its stand).

Thanks for adding to my understanding--little by little I think I will be able to get things set up to function correctly.

Wilf

[Wilf]

My engine is a 1965 CB77 (1001528). When I took apart the clutch pack to separate the frozen plates I noticed the two "Plate rings" (part # 26 on the cmsnl parts fiche, and Honda part # 22431-259-000) were not there.

I have read that some owners removed them and also that there was a recommendation to leave them in (Bill Silver?) because they made clutch disengagement a bit easier.

I'm wondering if the missing wire rings are contributing to my clutch problem and am considering installing them. On cmsnl's site they show the part as being used from engine # 1012460 to 211441. That range seems backwards to me, going from 7 digits down to 6.

Can anyone shed any light on this? And, if the rings really do apply to my engine, does anyone have a set for sale?

Thanks,

Wilf

[e3steve]

I'd suggest a PM to LM, Wilf.

[e3steve]

Thank-you for your observation Steve.

Over the last few days I have thought about my shifting problem. I'm going to try eliminating clutch drag as a cause. After that, I may have to look at the clutch lifter rod end for "sick mushrooming".....Wilf

Pics of my homemade stainless steel lifter rod, no longer in use (obviously!), as promised. It did the trick for a season though. My NOS rod has taken me about 5 miles, so far, and is already exhibiting a tiny sign of indentation (albeit slight) from the ball bearing.

This rod here was the cause of my clutch drag. CB snicks in & out of gear much easier now.

[Wilf]

Thanks for the pics, Steve. I know my lifter rod has a small indentation from the ball bearing, but I didn't think it was enough to cause the problem. Weather looks good today so I hope to re-adjust the clutch and try it out.

Wilf