Transmission Help

WrenchRust · Post by **WrenchRust** » Fri Sep 17, 2010 12:13 am

I'm trying to figure out how a transmission works on the CL77. I'm in the middle of a rebuild on a bike that's been rode hard and put away wet. Sooo many things wrong and need replacing. I'm down to the transmission and I'm trying to teach myself as I go. First thing mechanical I've ever done outside of changing a lightbulb (the household variety) I've been working on the bike slowly but at least 5 days a week since the middle of Augest. Cases are split.
If anyone has any pictures of what the transmission looks like when it's in each of the 5 gears (1, N, 2, 3, 4) Please please please let me know. I've read through almost everything I could find (but admittitly, I could've skipped the post I needed to see)
Even better, if you've got before and after being shimmed...

To sweeten the deal, I've got lots of Krylon Dull Aluminum 1403 that I'd happily trade for the pictures and / or any info in pre-K terminalogy...

Thanks Guys,

Joel

rustywrench · Post by **rustywrench** » Fri Sep 17, 2010 12:54 am

Joel, I will get some on here first thing tomorrow morning and try to clear up some mystery for you. That is if someone doesn't beat me to it.
The trans is a very simple thing, once you understand how torque is routed through the gears.
All gears route torque to provide gear reduction.
You have a main shaft that provides torque in and out. It is made up of two independant shafts that spin independant of each other by way of a pocket bearing. On one end the clutch, the other end has the sprocket. In fourth gear, they are locked shaft to shaft by moving the fourth gear so that input and output are linked.
Below that is the counter shaft that routes the torque. When I post pics I hope to show how that is done.
Or you could just send me a round trip plane ticket and I can show you what you need to know. I've never been to Florida. Well, it was a nice try. See ya in the morning. RW

rustywrench · Post by **rustywrench** » Fri Sep 17, 2010 10:10 am

OK, as promised.
Note the pointer in each showing the dog engagement in each position. Note that the dogs have an under cut bevel to draw them together when under pressure. I'll make points of interest for each. Hope this helps and if you need to, PM your # and we can talk. RW

WrenchRust · Post by **WrenchRust** » Sat Sep 18, 2010 12:39 pm

Rusty Wrench,

THANK YOU SOOO MUCH!!! (sorry 'bout the caps, but I wanted to yell it)

I took the pics and tried to replicate it on my trans. I even put the shift drum back together an put it in place so I could change gears using the drum and get a better visual. Had lots of little "awe" and "oh" moments and a few "huh?" moments too, but I think I'm getting it slowly.

I think it'll work better when I replace the broken cotters and such but I'm trying to give it a little wiggle room to make up for them.

Thanks again, You're the man!!!

Joel

rustywrench · Post by **rustywrench** » Sat Sep 18, 2010 11:26 pm

Joel,
No problem what so ever. If you would like to consider X'ing the gears, we can cover that as well. Just say the word. RW

WrenchRust · Post by **WrenchRust** » Sat Sep 18, 2010 11:31 pm

I'm absolutely considering it... Still trying to figure out the Shimming thing first tho... I can be a little slow to the finish line but I'm determined to get there

rustywrench · Post by **rustywrench** » Sun Sep 19, 2010 9:27 am

Joel,
The most important part of the assembly is to insure that the dogs engage fully. Otherwise you could end up with jumping out of gear problem. Offset cotters can help that some but not always needed. IMHO, if you are going to put together a race machine or one that is going to cruise at super insane speeds, I personally would not go to the extra effort to shim one of these things to micro specs. For our toot around town occasional riders, close is OK. Others will surely argue with me but that's just MHO on the shimming thing. X'ing is a good thing to do for a better ratio and very simple to do. Later, RW