Hi,
It's a dream you have ?
No troubles with the dream here either,
Jensen
neutral
Hi,
To summarize : If you have troubles with shifting into neutral, deny it, there is no problem, neutral isn't necessary on a motorcycle anyway. But if you really need to shift in neutral in an exceptional occasion, stop, switch off the engine, rock the bike and shift firmly it into neutral. If that doesn't help, lubricate the clutch cable. Case closed, Jensen assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)
And now serious :
First of all I agree that shifting into neutral isn't necessary, especialy into modern days traffic it can be dangerous. As a high mileage motorcyclist I'm fully aware of that, but I want to shift the bike into neutral sometimes, and because it's there it has to function properly. @ Steve, In general lube the cables every year with High Density Telfon spray and a cable lube device, easy and simple. I go on spraying and pumping until it squirts out on the other side (of the cable). @ Ed, Like I said, I'll come back on this subject. What I did was make more grooves in the friction plates. By doing so, I dismissed 20 % of the friction area. Until today it doesn't slip and it doesn't drag. The transmission behaves much better, and the point where the clutch is working is very precise, much better than the vague working area before this. Another 30 % of the area I turned away from the inner radius of the clutch friction plates, so the diameter is smaller now (not the thickness). The force on the clutch is transmitted best at the biggest radius (longest arm). The best solution would be a bigger diameter clutch and much smaller friction plates (not thinner). (the original explanation was longer and more detailed, but since it appears that I'm the only one having problems with it, I didn't take the trouble to write it all again). Jensen assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)
what type of lube did you use? and from my understanding, did you physically take the lube and squirt it down the cable?? I suppose this will make it much easier to move in and out, eliminating any potential friction that may cause your CB to shift prematurely? Am I right?
First and foremost I replaced the clutch pushrod; I had made one from 8mm s/s rod, but the adjuster end peened so badly that I was adjusting the clutch before every ride (stainless is pretty soft). I nipped the cable outer in a vice, with the end dangling in a small tin. I then 'worked' the inner cable up & down whilst gently lubing with a pump-type oiler containing 'no-fling' heavy chain lube oil. It took about six or seven minutes of pushing the oil down, by reciprocating the inner, until it made it to the other end. I kept working it back & forth, wiping the excess from each exposed length of inner, until there was little left to wipe away. Upon fitting the cable back on the bike I was stunned at how smooth the 'pull' was; and it's remained so all season. What a difference; it's now as light as a feather and the perceived clutch drag has been eliminated. And the 'box snicks into neutral, piece o' cake!
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