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Hi,
If lubricated with oil only, gravity indeed will draw the oil down the cable, and gravity doesn't stop working after installing the cable, meaning, the oil is collecting in the lowest point and doesn't lube the rest of the cable anymore. Jensen assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)
Oil has worked fine on Bowden cables for decades; still does.... No-fling lube seems to be attributed with almost thixotropic properties. I think there is a point when adhesion of the oil to the cable exceeds the gravity force after the excess oil drips out the bottom. I've tried WD40 (which I still use to clean), dedicated cable lube products, graphite lock oil etc, but always revert to 30W (non-synthetic) Been using this method for 45 years and it works for me I think the most important thing is to do it regularly 66 dream, 78 cb750k, 02fz1, 09 wing
Hi Brewsky,
If your bike is sitting for 3 months or more , it's good to kick around the oil (with the kick starter, no ignition) before you start it. Now, why is that ? Oil, as any other fluid will flow to the lowest point, eventually, it only will take time and if the temperatures are high (summer) the oil will even faster flow to the lowest point. I only wish oil adhesion was so good that it stays attached to the surface for a long time. Indeed, you have to do it regularly, regardless of what you use. The cables with a grease nipple are the easiest to lubricate, just take a grease gun with light grease and start lubing. Jensen assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)
im not sure if i am understanding correctly, as i am a total new guy at this.
1. i never understood that you needed to lube your cables/cable housing. 2. i get the cables that are coming from my handlebars *brake cables, clutch cable, spedo cable, rear brake cable* and i lube those up by creating a funnel by tape and letting it set over night using 30w engine oil? please, do not laugh to hard if this one is right over my head. #1 YES #2 Not exactly......I use a plastic funnel which will just fit over the unhooked cable. Create a seal between the cable and funnel with black tape. Hold the funnel up by some method of your choice and pour in your choice of lube. When it comes out the bottom of the cable you know its lubed the entire length. You can also buy fancy lube attachments for spray can lubes if you want Some cables have lube fittings which is good, use those if you have them Some cables have a "plastic" coating which don't require lube at all 66 dream, 78 cb750k, 02fz1, 09 wing
No one's laughing at you at all; if you don't ask, how are you supposed to glean info?
Yes, brewsky uses that method, as I shall on my throttle cables. Back in the '60s there was a cable-luber comprising a small, alu tubular device that one could clamp over the outer cable (various sizes of end plug were included), partially fill with oil, screw on the cap (which was fitted with the bicycle tyre pump valve); then attach the pump and give it about ten strokes. within a few seconds the oil was oozing out the other end -- now that's job done. Not seen one for years!
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