Be careful not to overtighten the carb bolts as it can warp the mounting flange.
4 ft-lbs is plenty tight.
You can check for a leak by spraying some WD40 on the flange/insulator joint area while running and see if any resulting smoke comes from the exhaust, or...
some carb cleaner and notice if the engine revs up as a result
If so, you need to check for warpage at the joint and install new o-rings.
But first, make sure the throttle cable is not sticking....turn the handlebars full right and full left and see if the idle speed changes
pointsSascha,
Now is a good time to savor the satisfaction of hearing it run once again, but also to reflect on what you had to do make it run. I'm interested in knowing what the causes and cures were for your leaky carb, the points problem and what you conclude about your plugs (one looks mint, the other not so much). It might be an idea to put a timing light on it and check the dynamic timing to ensure it's not over advancing. I watched the video--when you rev it and then twist the throttle back to idle, do the rpm's come down right away, or is there a delayed response? Congratulations, and enjoy! Wilf Hey Wilf,
So the leaking carb was because I had the float positioned way too low, when the float was closing the fuel inlet into the carb by going up with the water level, it was not putting enough pressure on the pin in the fuel nut to close the fuel flow. So essentially, the float was incorrectly positioned such that it continued to feed fuel when it should have remain closed. The timing is set correctly now, no question about that - fires on the first kick and runs good! As for the throttle response, I am not sure what the issue is, its probably one of two very simple things: 1. an air leak on the carb mount 2. the cable is stickey becuase it has too many bends (most likely) I will keep you posted. -Sascha
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