You could try adjusting the pin-wheel lookin tangs to increase / decrease the amount of pressure on the cork / rubber gasket. Pictures
here
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Leaking Petcock CA77
-
paperslammer
- honda305.com Member
- Posts: 144
- Joined: Sun Aug 16, 2009 1:53 am
- Location: Palo Alto, CA
No more leaks
The leak is stopped.
As an experiment, I took the new rubber bottom piece out and put the old cork bottom back in. The cork was still solid, but the "up" side had a raised area from the holes in the lever. I put it in up side down. Contrary to my prior post, the new rubber part actually seems to be thicker than the cork, though I didn't take measurements. I think the extra bulk of the rubber part was causing the sealing surfaces to distort when the 3 screws were tightened. That may be why others have suggested just snugging them up. But, I had not been able to get that to work for whatever reason.
Another thing, While assembling the petcock, I put the body on my bench and used the end of a flat screw driver to press down against the metal top plate (in between the 4 springs) which forces the top rubber piece down into the body as far as possible. I think that helped create the "seal" needed to stop the leak. For good measure, I took a punch and placed it in the center of the metal top plate. A moderate tap with a hammer to make sure the pin in the center of the top plate was into the body as far as it would go.
Put the petcock back on the tank and tightened the the screws down good and tight. No leaks and the lever slides back and forth with kind of pressure you would expect from a brand new petcock.
I bought my petcock kit a couple of years ago and it only had the rubber bottom piece, though I see that the new kits from Retrobikes have a cork bottom piece.
Thanks for the help offered and I hope my experience will help others.
As an experiment, I took the new rubber bottom piece out and put the old cork bottom back in. The cork was still solid, but the "up" side had a raised area from the holes in the lever. I put it in up side down. Contrary to my prior post, the new rubber part actually seems to be thicker than the cork, though I didn't take measurements. I think the extra bulk of the rubber part was causing the sealing surfaces to distort when the 3 screws were tightened. That may be why others have suggested just snugging them up. But, I had not been able to get that to work for whatever reason.
Another thing, While assembling the petcock, I put the body on my bench and used the end of a flat screw driver to press down against the metal top plate (in between the 4 springs) which forces the top rubber piece down into the body as far as possible. I think that helped create the "seal" needed to stop the leak. For good measure, I took a punch and placed it in the center of the metal top plate. A moderate tap with a hammer to make sure the pin in the center of the top plate was into the body as far as it would go.
Put the petcock back on the tank and tightened the the screws down good and tight. No leaks and the lever slides back and forth with kind of pressure you would expect from a brand new petcock.
I bought my petcock kit a couple of years ago and it only had the rubber bottom piece, though I see that the new kits from Retrobikes have a cork bottom piece.
Thanks for the help offered and I hope my experience will help others.
