Question re my front hub on the "mystery Dream"

[jerrybb]

Just an update on my '63 that has the 180 deg crank. I've played around with the timing, have it set perfectly on the mark for the right side and I'm pretty close on the left, even though there is no secondary timing marks on the stator. I'm taking it to Charlie's place after the holidays to get it figured out. Meanwhile, thanks to the guys that helped me so far (Davo, Loudmouse, and others) with this oddball. I'll post the results when I get it running right.

Meanwhile, got the clutch freed up and it seems to be staying that way and not sticking when it sits. Drove it at about 45-50 for a few miles and it suddenly broke loose. Changed the oil again, and it seems good.

The question for now, is there a trick to getting the front hub set right? I pulled the wheel because of a grinding noise which I though was brakes. The brakes are fine but the noise is from the brake backing plate rubbing against the wheel. There is no clearance between the two. I've tried different degrees of tightness on the hub bolt, tried spreading the front dampers apart and clamping them down but it still rubs after a few turns. Is there some spacer or something I'm missing? I've looked through all the Silver manuals but found nothing. Also how tight should the main axle nut be? If I tighten it snug it locks the wheel and won't turn. Thanks in advance for any info. Jerry

One more bit of info, I emailed Coker and they said that the 3.25 x 16 WW is due in late March. We'll see, I would prefer that over portawalls.

[KellieLyyne]

Jerry, I hope your right about the whitewalls, and I don't want to look it as the glass half empty, but they told me that same thing TWO YEARS AGO! But, I hope they do come through, I would have went with Firestones too, if they had them when putting my bike together, but they were unobtainable. Are your hubs original to your bike? Or were they purchased separately?

[jerrybb]

I hope so too, I really don't want to use the portawalls even if they look ok. For the amount of riding I do, the Cokers would last me quite a few years so price really isn't an issue. I can wait a few months but would need new ones by the time the weather gets warmer, my existing bw's are cracked. I expect to get it running right within a month or so.

Re the axle, as far as I know the front end is original but who knows? I'll play with it some more but I notice that the '62 parts bike I have has a different wheel/hub setup. Slightly different fit on the brake and wheel, which may be normal for that year. Since there is no cotter pin on the nut, it must tighten down securely but when I do, it locks it down tight. I can't see anything missing when I compare it to the parts blowup in the manual.

[davomoto]

Speedo drive lined up properly? There are two tabs that align with notches in the hub. If you didn't lined them up, and tightened the axle, they're probably bent.

Merry Xmas, Davo

[KellieLyyne]

I too have a 63 Dream. I have some spare parts, let me know if you find that you need something and I will check my spares and see if I have what you need. Enough members on here have helped me out, so I don't mind paying it forward, if I have the part(s) you need, I will send it your way. - Merry Christmas!

[jerrybb]

Thanks for the offer. I hope I don't have to take you up on it though. I'll check the speedo drive first and go from there. Merry Christmas to all the Dreamers.

[jerrybb]

Back in business..speedo drive was fine. After checking the diagram again and taking apart the hub assy, I think part #29 (in the Honda Dream parts book) the oil seal was missing which made the whole assy tighter and locked it down. I took a large fender-type washer and put it over the bearing to act like a seal and also a spacer. Everything bolted down nice and tight, wheel turns freely and smooth. Next thing is to get the electrical worked out and it's good to go. New tires can wait a few months if needed.