Points Timing With Multimeter

[akpasta]

Some questions.

1. Since I already have a multimeter I wanted to try and use it for points timing. I set it to Ohms, and tried to place the alligator clips in a spot that would give me some kind of reaction. Couldn't get any. I know you're supposed to attach either red or black to points and other to ground, I tried both. Couldn't get it. Do you have to connect to the battery too? With the timing light you attach to the battery and points, but I dunno bout' the multimeter.

2. My point gaps are identical. So why is it that you can't use a timing strobe light? I shined one at the stator anyway just to see, and both cylinders seem to be behind a bit at idle. Is it inadvisable to use a timing light since it will vary depending on rpms? Shouldn't it seem with the way the points plate works that if one cylinder is behind, the other should be in front (if the point gaps are the same)?

BTW, My bike runs great but the left cylinder doesn't seem to idle as strong for some reason. Both seem to run nice and hot and strong when up and running though.

Thanks.

[brewsky]

You won't get any reaction till the points close with the multimeter on ohms.
One lead to ground and the other to the hot wire to points.
Switch off, turn crank slowly till you get a reaction....that should be at F mark.

If you have a (strobe) timing light, that is the best way to set timing though.

With the timing light installed, rev the engine and make sure the advance marks do not go past the pointer.

If there is a small difference when it returns to normal idle that is ok, the most important thing is not to have it go past the advance marks when revved up.

[Snakeoil]

Using a DMM to determine when the points open is not a great idea. There tends to be some lag in the digital meters so you'll go by the point before you see an indication. Best way is to use a bulb and just hang it where you can see it and then watch the timing mark as you turn the crank.

But, to Brewski's point, using a strobe timing light is the very best way to check/verify your timing.

regards,
Rob

[akpasta]

That's what i thought, since doing it with the points light means after you fix your point gap on each set, you'd have to move the point plate, then move the stator to test your light turning on at the F, move the plate, move the stator, etc.

So if I just set the gap on each points to spec, use the light, move the plate, i'm golden?

How come Ed Moore's guide says "DO NOT USE A TIMING STROBE LIGHT?" Is there some kind of downside?

[LOUD MOUSE]

I'll give ya a simple/long answer to your question and why I recommend a LIGHT rather than a VOM/Timing lite.
THE ORIGINAL HONDA WAY DIDN'T WORK.
Go ahead and start ya engine and as the bike is jumping around ya will need to time the right side points and then if ya are able to do them ya will need to do the left side.
A 12 volt light will LITE as soon as the points OPEN.
SO if ya really want to set the points ya can follow my information or ya can do as was done in the 60's (well that's as good as I can get them) when the mechanic followed HONDA'S instructions at that time.
If ya can read and understand my instructions and use them your ENGINE will run Really Well.
I'VE DONE MY BEST TO HELP YOU AND OTHERS TO OFFER THE SIMPLEST WAY TO GET THESE ENGINES TO RUN BETTER TODAY THAN THEY DID IN THE 60'S.. ...............lm

That's what i thought, since doing it with the points light means after you fix your point gap on each set, you'd have to move the point plate, then move the stator to test your light turning on at the F, move the plate, move the stator, etc.

So if I just set the gap on each points to spec, use the light, move the plate, i'm golden?

How come Ed Moore's guide says "DO NOT USE A TIMING STROBE LIGHT?" Is there some kind of downside?

[brewsky]

AK,
The "point" to understand is that rotating the points plate affects the timing of both sets of points at the same time.

Also, changing the gap affects the timing.

Once you set the gap on the right side points, set the timing for the right side, and tighten down the plate, the only way to change the left side timing is to adjust the gap of the left side points. You are actually setting the timing of the left side by changing the left side point gap.

That is why it is better not to use a strobe light for the initial static setting, since the engine should be running to use the strobe, and it would be hard to adjust a set of points with a running engine.

Using the strobe is mainly for checking the timing at full advance, with the engine running, and is normally done after the static timing is done per the LM method.

If the strobe shows the timing is not advanced enough at higher engine rpm, or is advanced too far, then you can adjust by moving the plate, which moves both sets of points at the same time.

Hope this helps you understand

[Hotshoe]

Great explaination... I've never quite gotten the advancer/points/timing light relationship, thanks Brewsky.