My "new" Dream...

[rzgkane]

Kane,

The gray plug looking thing right in front of your kick start shaft is a clutch adjustment. Do a search and you will find how to adjust it.

The line that connects the two sides of the tank allows the gas in both sides of the tank to equalize so that the petcock side doesn't empty out and leave gas in the other side.

You will find a wealth of knowledge using the search function. It is time consuming, but well worth it.

I don't know if I can say that it is settled without question, but I am pretty well convinced that if you have a CA77 frame your badges should say "Dream 300" and if you have a CA78 your badges should say "300". Not to worry, your bike is a pretty one even if not original and the "Dream 300" badges look great on it.

Thanks. I fully appreciate that I am attempting to short circuit the research process, but honestly, that's what I think these forurms are for. So many have already been where I am trying to go. Why not try and do it the easy way and benefit from what others have already figured out and know?

That said, I looked for an hour at the clutch/transmission section and found many folks asking the same question I'm asking with only a few quality responses and, here's the catch, not many illustrations or images to really drive home the point. Why are there so few pictures here? Is the process of posting a pic too cumbersome for some folks?

I will try the clutch adjustment process tomorrow. And I will not forget that damn ball bearing!

[rzgkane]

It would be worth it for you to take the right side cover off and reposition the kick starter to the 11 o'clock position as to not damage the splines when using the kick starter.
Jethro

Ok, I gotta know what you mean by this. Do you mean that the notch on the adjuster should line up to the 11 o'clock position after adjusting? Or, do you mean that I should reposition the kick starter onto the splines at a position different than where it is now? Seems like the latter would mean I have to remove the clutch cover entirely and do something significant.

I performed the clutch adjustment procedure using the large slotted adjuster in the clutch cover and below is what the three points (cable adjuster at the lever, the clutch case and the slotted adjuster) look like now. The clutch cable adjuster at the lever is screwed in much farther now, meaning it is not having to take up as much slack as it used to.

Should this adjuster be at any certain position? Doesn't seem like you can dictate where it lands when adjusted. Turning it to the right until slack is gone and back off 1/8" leaves this adjuster right here:


IMG_0563 by rzgkane, on Flickr


IMG_0561 by rzgkane, on Flickr

Before clutch adjustment:


IMG_0508 by rzgkane, on Flickr

After clutch adjustment:


IMG_0562 by rzgkane, on Flickr

[Jethro]

These 305 clutches can be fussy creatures.
It would be worth it to take a look at the way the clutch mechanism is situated when you take that side cover off.
It seems that a lot of people have had some bad luck with some reproduction clutch cables.
I had to shorten one a few weeks ago for my CB77.
I think what happens is that when properly adjusted per instructions, the aftermarket cables run out of cable at the actuating mechanism and it's like the cable is stretching rather than lifting the mechanism.
I'm probably just confusing you at this point but if you do a search about shortening cables you will see what I'm talking about.
I know it sounds complicated to remove that cover if you've never done it, but it really is a piece of cake. Just keep in mind that the kickstarter will want to spin aft when you pull the cover off.
So it helps to push it forward just a bit to help walk it off the shaft.
The deal with the kickstarter is that if it's at the 12 o'clock position or close to it, then you can hit the stop and doing so will twist the splines and do some damage that these shafts can't afford. (More clarification upon request)

Hope this helps for the time being.
Jethro

[rzgkane]

These 305 clutches can be fussy creatures.
It would be worth it to take a look at the way the clutch mechanism is situated when you take that side cover off.
It seems that a lot of people have had some bad luck with some reproduction clutch cables.
I had to shorten one a few weeks ago for my CB77.
I think what happens is that when properly adjusted per instructions, the aftermarket cables run out of cable at the actuating mechanism and it's like the cable is stretching rather than lifting the mechanism.
I'm probably just confusing you at this point but if you do a search about shortening cables you will see what I'm talking about.
I know it sounds complicated to remove that cover if you've never done it, but it really is a piece of cake. Just keep in mind that the kickstarter will want to spin aft when you pull the cover off.
So it helps to push it forward just a bit to help walk it off the shaft.
The deal with the kickstarter is that if it's at the 12 o'clock position or close to it, then you can hit the stop and doing so will twist the splines and do some damage that these shafts can't afford. (More clarification upon request)

Hope this helps for the time being.
Jethro

Gotcha. So when you look at the kicker on my bike you feel it is leaning too far away from 11 and too far toward 12, right?

I have no problem taking off the side cover. I was a dealer wrench for a decade back in the 80-90 years so I think I'm ok there. Do I need any replacement gaskets upon tackling this job? Is it just a matter of removing the case and backing the kicker off a tooth or two?

I honestly think I'll wait to see how she runs before I do any significant investigation. I'm of the school of "if it ain't broke..."