Swap meet find- 67 Scrambler restore

[LOUD MOUSE]

Have you verified that ALL the WIRES are connected correctly.
Frying good regulators isn't as you know normal so I think somewhere with the wiring isn't correct. ............lm

I seem to have the carb gasket solved, replacement gaskets have held for a while. I've got some viton material, made a gasket for my CA77 carb. Put some of it soaking in fuel for a week with no problem. If the current gasket goes bad I'll use it.

I'm not sure if I mentioned here, but I purchased a Kohler regulator and installed it, read somewhere that was the way to go. I rode the CL77 on the AMCA National road run Friday (used the CA77 Thursday and Saturday). Engine died about 40 miles out running with headlights. I turned it off and made it to mile 172 ( of 200). The regulator was fried. It looks like it melted between the terminal to the battery and the yellow wire, which if I remember correctly my has two legs of the alternator attached when the lights are on. Apparently the regulator is not heavy duty enough. So much for a "good idea.". Looks like I'll go back to the diode setup, modern of course.

[OldStan]

Stan,

Did you use a new OE Kohler unit or one of the aftermarket units?

HT

I hadn't thought about that, but it was an after market unit.

Yes lm, the first thing I checked is the wiring, red to the B terminal and the brown and yellow to the AC terminals. There was a good ground on the housing as well.

[LOUD MOUSE]

12 VOLTS go all through the wire harness and you may want to check places other than AT THE RECTIFIER. ...........lm

Stan,

Did you use a new OE Kohler unit or one of the aftermarket units?

HT

I hadn't thought about that, but it was an after market unit.

Yes lm, the first thing I checked is the wiring, red to the B terminal and the brown and yellow to the AC terminals. There was a good ground on the housing as well.

[Hoosier Tom]

Stan,

I've done several Kohler conversions on CB77s, CB175s, CB350s and CB450s with the OE unit and never had a problem. The wiring, stators and output values were all ok before the conversions. I have read on other bike forums and tractor forums the Chinese aftermarket units have had quality issues.

HT

[OldStan]

12 VOLTS go all through the wire harness and you may want to check places other than AT THE RECTIFIER. ...........lm

Stan,

Did you use a new OE Kohler unit or one of the aftermarket units?

HT

I hadn't thought about that, but it was an after market unit.

Yes lm, the first thing I checked is the wiring, red to the B terminal and the brown and yellow to the AC terminals. There was a good ground on the housing as well.

I've checked everything I can think of that could have an effect. Checked at the headlight switch where it connects the extra coil, everything is correct there and connecting/disconnecting with the switch position. I checked the key on draw, about 2.3 or 2.4 amps, lights on about 4.5 amps (both not running.) No draw down on the battery when ignition is off. I'm not sure what the coils should draw, but that doesn't seem unreasonable to me.

As far as I can tell the problem was the regulator, 2 terminals were loose from the inside, and wire ends discolored from the heat. The ends are no good now, lost their tension.

If anyone can point me at something else to check, please do.

[LOUD MOUSE]

Now if you checked the wire locations and connections I'd give another attempt at a new rectifier.
RetroBikes in Washington sells the diode type. ...............lm

12 VOLTS go all through the wire harness and you may want to check places other than AT THE RECTIFIER. ...........lm

Stan,

Did you use a new OE Kohler unit or one of the aftermarket units?

HT

I hadn't thought about that, but it was an after market unit.

Yes lm, the first thing I checked is the wiring, red to the B terminal and the brown and yellow to the AC terminals. There was a good ground on the housing as well.

I've checked everything I can think of that could have an effect. Checked at the headlight switch where it connects the extra coil, everything is correct there and connecting/disconnecting with the switch position. I checked the key on draw, about 2.3 or 2.4 amps, lights on about 4.5 amps (both not running.) No draw down on the battery when ignition is off. I'm not sure what the coils should draw, but that doesn't seem unreasonable to me.

As far as I can tell the problem was the regulator, 2 terminals were loose from the inside, and wire ends discolored from the heat. The ends are no good now, lost their tension.

If anyone can point me at something else to check, please do.

[OldStan]

Thanks lm, that's probably the way I'll go. My dream has one of those rectifiers, and it seems to work well. I run with lights on no problem (now, I did burn out the original bulb and the low beam on a halogen bulb. I think the problem there was switching the headlight on at speed causing a voltage surge. At least it sounds good.)

I rigged up a digital voltmeter to the battery terminal (plugged in to my battery tender plug) and running at 55 mph it showed 17.6 volts (lights on or off.) I haven't tried rigging up an ammeter in the system, but from what I understand with this system, at that voltage there is almost no flow (again I could be wrong here.) I checked the voltmeter against another one I have and it read the same. Maybe something in the type of charging system is throwing it off.

I'm going to quit trying to over-think this and go with the system that has obviously worked.