I have seen this show up here and there in questions, and would like to add my technique as well as ask for better ways.
The problem is that multiplate wet clutches always have some drag. When combined with the undercut dogs on our gears, it becomes almost impossible to shift to neutral from 1st or 2nd at a stop. This can be true even with a well adjusted clutch and cable. Maybe a new clutch with perfect dimensions is better, but I doubt it.
Once stopped, I need to turn off the engine to shift, which adds wear and tear to the starter. Obviously, shifting while rolling to the stop is preferred.
In addition, I'd like to say that what works best for me is to shift from 2nd to neutral without touching the clutch, at the speed where the engine idle RPM matches the road speed, so there is no torque being transmitted through the transmission from the rear wheel. This occurs close to 10 MPH in 2nd, and 6 MPH in 1st. Your idle speed may differ, but it is easy to feel when you pass through this speed.
Larry
How to get neutral in a CB77?
How to get neutral in a CB77?
Dick,
Thanks. The picture was taken at the Mt Wilson Observatory, where the red shifts were first measured to validate the Big Bang theory. I cold no find "transmission problem solved", but I did enjoy reading "the clutch center". I must say that you have more dedication, and skill as well, than I do. Am I to understand that you can stop at a red light in gear, then shift into neutral while stopped? If so, congratulations! I'll relegate my tip about shifting to neutral while rolling without disengaging the clutch to the lazy and/or cheap among us. Picture below shows the same bike cooling off after advanced timing melted the right sparkp plug electrode down to the ceramic on the long climb to Randsburg (CA, not SA). Best regards, Larry
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