LOUD MOUSE wrote:I agree with that for sure.
I admit there are some things I'm ignorant about so "Thread Locker"?
Do you possibly mean Lock Tite? .......................lm
Brickyard wrote:LM, i planned on using sealant only on the case mating surfaces.
I havent seen thread locker in Bill Silver's book, but then again I think it was written 22 years ago.
What do you suggest?
LOUD MOUSE wrote:The pump has 2 gaskets and doesn't require sealant.
Of course that's always a matter of choice. ...........lm
Brickyard wrote:Yes, along with the oil pump.
G-Man wrote:Brickyard
Just use sparingly and keep it out of those oil galleries. Did you clean the oil filter after finding all that muck in the oilways?
G
Brickyard wrote:At this point I'm pretty nervous as this is the first time I've split the cases and put them back together. The worry of "maybe I forgot something" is hard to overcome, but I checked and checked again. Bill Silver said an alternative to Hondabond is this permatex ultimate gasket maker; it's what I have, so it's what I'll use...
Squealing noise around stator and slow return to idles
LM, I suppose I mean both...
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Thank you.
I though maybe!. ............lm
I though maybe!. ............lm
Brickyard wrote:Yep.
LOUD MOUSE wrote:I agree with that for sure.
I admit there are some things I'm ignorant about so "Thread Locker"?
Do you possibly mean Lock Tite? .......................lm
Brickyard wrote:LM, i planned on using sealant only on the case mating surfaces.
I havent seen thread locker in Bill Silver's book, but then again I think it was written 22 years ago.
What do you suggest?
LOUD MOUSE wrote:The pump has 2 gaskets and doesn't require sealant.
Of course that's always a matter of choice. ...........lm
Brickyard wrote:Yes, along with the oil pump.
G-Man wrote:Brickyard
Just use sparingly and keep it out of those oil galleries. Did you clean the oil filter after finding all that muck in the oilways?
G
Brickyard wrote:At this point I'm pretty nervous as this is the first time I've split the cases and put them back together. The worry of "maybe I forgot something" is hard to overcome, but I checked and checked again. Bill Silver said an alternative to Hondabond is this permatex ultimate gasket maker; it's what I have, so it's what I'll use...
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The small nuts/bolts do not get torqued to the same spec as the large ones. Snugly works. I think the shop manual specs 6-8 ft/lbs.Brickyard wrote:Used a rubber glove and did my best to evenly apply sealant to mating surfaces as LM suggested in the past, but stayed away from the crescent shaped oil port up front.
Torqued 14mm nuts to 15 ft./lbs, but when i attempted to do the same for the 10mm nuts/bolts, i backed off after hearing a couple studs stretch.
Should these 10mm bolts/nuts be torqued down to 15ft./lbs, or should they be "snug?'
HT
Thanks, HT!
Hoosier Tom wrote:The small nuts/bolts do not get torqued to the same spec as the large ones. Snugly works. I think the shop manual specs 6-8 ft/lbs.Brickyard wrote:Used a rubber glove and did my best to evenly apply sealant to mating surfaces as LM suggested in the past, but stayed away from the crescent shaped oil port up front.
Torqued 14mm nuts to 15 ft./lbs, but when i attempted to do the same for the 10mm nuts/bolts, i backed off after hearing a couple studs stretch.
Should these 10mm bolts/nuts be torqued down to 15ft./lbs, or should they be "snug?'
HT
Cases went together nice and smooth, nice lip of sealant around edges, case nuts and bolts are torqued and snug.
Calling it a night since after I installed shift drum, kick starter parts, and gearshift spindle, I had 4 washers left over. I can't remember if those were already on the bottom of my cleaning can when I dropped the clutch parts in the cleaning bucket, or not.
-_-
Calling it a night since after I installed shift drum, kick starter parts, and gearshift spindle, I had 4 washers left over. I can't remember if those were already on the bottom of my cleaning can when I dropped the clutch parts in the cleaning bucket, or not.
-_-
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Brickyard
The torque spec of any bolt is based upon the cross-sectional area and the material properties of the bolt and the mating part.
Because the material is the same for both, a 6mm bolt (10mm head) needs just over half the torque of an 8 mm bolt (14mm head). The ratio is 6 squared divided by 8 squared ...... which simplifies to 9/16
Good luck with the rest of your assembly.
G
The torque spec of any bolt is based upon the cross-sectional area and the material properties of the bolt and the mating part.
Because the material is the same for both, a 6mm bolt (10mm head) needs just over half the torque of an 8 mm bolt (14mm head). The ratio is 6 squared divided by 8 squared ...... which simplifies to 9/16
Good luck with the rest of your assembly.
G
Hoosier Tom wrote:The small nuts/bolts do not get torqued to the same spec as the large ones. Snugly works. I think the shop manual specs 6-8 ft/lbs.Brickyard wrote:Used a rubber glove and did my best to evenly apply sealant to mating surfaces as LM suggested in the past, but stayed away from the crescent shaped oil port up front.
Torqued 14mm nuts to 15 ft./lbs, but when i attempted to do the same for the 10mm nuts/bolts, i backed off after hearing a couple studs stretch.
Should these 10mm bolts/nuts be torqued down to 15ft./lbs, or should they be "snug?'
HT
'60 C77 '60 C72 '62 C72 Dream '63 CL72
'61 CB72 '64 CB77 '65 CB160
'66 Matchless 350 '67 CL77
'67 S90 '77 CB400F
'61 CB72 '64 CB77 '65 CB160
'66 Matchless 350 '67 CL77
'67 S90 '77 CB400F