[ 1998: January - June ]

Time for new tires:  Michelin M38S - 2.75 x18 front, 3.00 x 18 rear.  These are not generally available in the US, but I was able to get several sets (VJMC listserv group purchase). 
* Fitted the new front tire to a front wheel from a donor bike.  The rear tire will be changed later... 
* Adjusted the front brake cable.

* Set the valve lash; changed the right exhaust rocker adjuster bolt (swap from the 1963 parts bike), but it is increasingly evident that the rocker arm shaft is worn as this rocker is perpetually noisy and always out of adjustment too soon.

* Adjusted the cam chain tensioner; early signs of rubber roller deterioration.
* Checked the point gap; no adjustment necessary, points look good w/nice gray color and no pitting. 
* Lubricated the point cam wick. 
* Checked the spark plugs.  The right side had signs of mild fouling (from an earlier rich running right carb).  Heated up the spark plug electrodes with a propane torch - to burn off any residue.  Regapped and reinstalled.
* Checked the steering head bearings; excessive play. 
* Replaced the upper roller balls and repacked with white lithium grease.  Checked the books later and discovered that the PO reassembled the bearings with 18 roller balls, instead of 19.  I decided to order a tapered roller conversion kit and not to continue fighting with the pesky rollers. 

* Greased every place supplied with a grease fitting.

* Installed the steering head Tapered Roller Conversion kit.
* Straight R & R, except that a spacer washer (part of the kit) replaces the lower tin spacer and the rubber biscuit (on the bottom of the steering stem) to become the seat for the lower tapered roller cage.

What a  difference this conversion makes!  No more sloppy steering action and no more of those insane rollers (19 top and 19 bottom) that bounce all over your garage.

* Drained the fork tube oil overnight.  Refilled with 200cc of ATF (enhanced seal rejuvenation formula).  Recommended amounts vary from 200cc to 250cc (6.8 to 7.1 oz).  Note: this volume applies to the early, steel bottomed forks.  The recommended oil type ranges from "White Spindle Oil # 60" - per Honda Factory Service Manual, to anywhere from 5wt, to 10wt to 10W30 as reported by VJ veterans.
* The left tube showed signs of oil seepage from the seals and with the wheel off, the action of that tube was somewhat "sloppy," with some internal scuffing or roughness?  A rebuild is definitely in order for the left tube; hopefully it can be saved!

With fresh oil, the damping action is greatly improved, although I will probably experiment with higher volume of oil and greater viscosity.  For the next 300 miles I'd like to give the "seal enhancement properties" of the ATF a chance to do their thing...

* Since the H/L was out, I took the opportunity to check all bullet connections within.  Sure enough, several connections were in bad shape - at least two were down to one or two strands of corroded copper wire.

* Resoldered all suspect bullets, cleaning the contacts and packing the connections with dielectric silicone grease in the process.

There is a noticeable improvement in lighting - brighter burning bulbs.  Rode around for about 20 to 30 miles (about 1.5 hours) with the headlight on without running the battery down.  This might indicate that the charging system is OK after all and that the earlier battery drain problems were the result of bad connections within the H/L housing, but a complete charging system test is in order regardless...

* Changed the tachometer cable; installed another used one in better shape.
* Reversed the position of the "O" ring in the tach drive pickup to address oil seepage in that area.
* Installed a used, but better than original speedometer cable.
* Replaced the lower grommet in the H/L housing. [If the original replacement is unavailable, use the Motormite "Help! PCV System Grommet"; Part # 42317].

The bike has developed a "stiffened shifting problem," particularly toward the end of linger rides.  This is indicative of some amount of clutch drag and other potential wear in the clutch engage/release system.

* Readjusted the clutch lifter (in the right side case)
* Readjusted the clutch cable; removed about 3/16 of extra slack.

This has improved the situation, although there is room for improvement.  I am planning on opening the clutch up and examining the friction & pressure plates as well as on replacing the clutch springs.

Tightened the bolt on the linkage lever (mounted onto the shifter output shaft); seems to have taken several percent of sloppiness out of the worn out shifter linkage.